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Savaneta Aruba Beach Guide: Mangel Halto, Santo Largo and More
Savaneta is where Aruba slows down. The old fishing town on the south coast was the island’s first capital, and today it is mostly homes, mangroves, seagrass flats and a couple of beaches locals would rather you did not tell everyone about. This savaneta aruba beach guide covers the three spots worth your time, how they differ, and where to eat afterwards.
Savaneta in two minutes
Savaneta lies on the southeast side of the island between Oranjestad and San Nicolas. It is the oldest village on Aruba and served as the seat of government until 1797, when it moved to the harbor that became Oranjestad. The island’s oldest surviving house, a mud-walled cas di torto around 150 years old, is here, and so is the military base at Commander’s Bay.
The coast is the leeward side, so the sea is usually gentle. Big swaths of it are now protected. In late 2018 Aruba created Parke Marino Aruba, and one of its four reserves covers the coastal waters along Mangel Halto, Isla di Oro and Santo Largo, mangroves included. The National Park Foundation manages it.
The beaches
Mangel Halto
This is the headline beach, in Pos Chiquito at the start of Savaneta. A sandy cove sits inside a ring of mangroves, with a wooden deck and stairs that make it easy to get into the water. The lagoon is calm and shallow. Out beyond it, the reef drops off steeply, to about 110 feet according to the tourism board.
It is the best snorkeling on the south coast. In the shallows look for parrotfish, yellowtail snapper, sergeant majors and blue tangs. Strong swimmers who head out to the reef edge can find gorgonians, sponges, morays and the occasional barracuda. There is also an old tugboat wreck, the Kappel, a favorite with shore divers.
Two warnings. First, the entry has sharp rock and coral in spots, so wear water shoes. Second, conditions change outside the cove. Fodor’s notes strong currents beyond it, and the tourism board advises only good swimmers to head out to the reef. Stay inside on rough days.
Shade is better than at most Aruba beaches thanks to the mangroves, trees and a few public huts. Kayakers and paddleboarders head out through the mangroves from here.
Santo Largo
Just past Mangel Halto, between it and Governor’s Bay, is Santo Largo. It is small and quiet, with white sand and very shallow water, so shallow that adults may need to walk a long way out before it is deep enough to swim. That makes it good for little kids. There are no facilities and almost no shade, so bring an umbrella. Snorkelers and kayakers use it as a quieter entry.
Savaneta Beach
Further along, separated from Santo Largo by a patch of trees, is a short stretch usually called Savaneta Beach. Calm, clear water over seagrass and very few visitors. It is the kind of place you sit for an hour with a book. Facilities are basically nonexistent.
Which savaneta aruba beach is right for you?
| Beach | Water | Shade | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mangel Halto | Calm lagoon, reef outside | Good (mangroves, huts) | Snorkeling, shore diving, kayaking |
| Santo Largo | Very shallow, calm | Very little | Small kids, quiet picnics |
| Savaneta Beach | Calm, seagrass | Little | Solitude, a quiet swim |
Eat like a local: Zeerovers
No trip down here is complete without lunch at Zeerovers, a no-frills spot on a fishing pier. The catch is cleaned and cooked in front of you and served in baskets with a few local sides. It is cash only. The tourism board lists the kitchen as open 11 AM to 9 PM and closed Mondays, but check before you go, because hours on the island do shift.
Getting there and practical notes
- Driving: follow the main road southeast from Oranjestad past the airport. The tourism board puts Savaneta about 20 minutes from town. Mangel Halto is right beside the road, so it is not silent, but parking is close.
- Bring: water shoes, your own snorkel gear and plenty of water. Fodor’s notes a few stores within walking distance of Mangel Halto for food and drinks.
- Best time: morning, when the water is calm and before weekend picnickers arrive. Weekends are lively with local families, especially at Mangel Halto.
- Respect the reserve: do not stand on coral, do not feed fish, and take every bit of trash home.
Is Savaneta worth the drive?
If you want long lounging beaches with bars, stay on Eagle Beach. If you want calm water, real snorkeling without a boat, mangroves you can paddle through and a fish lunch on a pier, Savaneta is one of the best half days on the island. Pair it with Baby Beach further south for a full day on the quiet side of Aruba.
Quick answers
Is Mangel Halto good for beginners?
Inside the lagoon, yes. Calm, shallow water with plenty of fish. The reef edge is for strong swimmers only, and Lonely Planet advises against diving or jumping in from the deck because the water is shallow.
Can I bring a picnic?
Yes. Mangel Halto and Santo Largo are both popular picnic spots, especially with families on weekends. Take everything home with you.
Is there shade?
At Mangel Halto, yes, thanks to mangroves and public huts. At Santo Largo and Savaneta Beach, bring your own.